Las Alpujarras is an area, on the southern flanks
of the Sierra Nevada, of ridges and valleys,
criss-crossed with a network of mule paths, irrigation
channels, hiking routes and brilliant white villages.
The unique hamlets have retained their traditional
Berber architecture - terraced clusters of grey-white
box-shaped houses with flat clay roofs. Perhaps the most
picturesque villages are the famous trio which cling,
one close above the other, to the slopes of the Poqueira
Valley. Pampaneira, at the bottom, bustles with crafts
shops and restaurants, as does Bubión, half way up the
slope, with its massive square church tower standing on
a plaza of rough paving stones. But to savour the
authentic Alpujarra, go to Capileira at the top of the
valley and walk down from the road into the lower
streets of the village, where the rocky streets,
overhanging passageways and sagging, stone houses have
still not been remodelled and prettified for
contemporary living.
Traditionally the roofing is made of a magnesium clay
that is impermeable to rain and above that is a layer of
stone. On the inside, an exposed layer of flat stones
forms the ceiling, kept in place by beams of timber.
Sitting on top of the flat roof are the cute little
chimneys, (see photos of Capileira below) all different,
and seeming to dance around the rooftops, talking to
each other. Another 'Al & Jane Adventure' (my 5th so far) but the
added bonus this time was the fantastic group of walkers
that also chose this holiday. However, don't let the
Ramblers Worldwide Holidays description 'Exploring the
Southern Valleys of the Sierra Nevada' fool you - these
valleys are very steep sided and the D+/C level walks
varied mainly between 3,100 feet and 3,450 feet of
ascent each day. The varied views and terrain were a delight, as
was the profusion of wild flowers. A holiday I would
definitely recommend to anyone thinking about visiting
this area.
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