The Dingle Way

11th June to 17th June
 

The Dingle Peninsula is situated in the south-west of Ireland, the top of the three extrusions on this corner of the Emerald Isle. The Dingle Way starts and finishes in Tralee, taking in the foothills of the Slieve Mish, the shoulder of Mount Brandon and the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean at Slea Head. The trail passes through many picturesque villages and towns and the landscape varies from pastoral farmland to lonely beaches - and much more besides!

Scroll down to see the whole walk or jump down to your chosen page by clicking on the links below:

[Day 1: Camp to Anascaul]

[Day 2: Annscaul to Dingle]

[Day 3: Dingle to Dunquin]

[Day 4: Dunquin to Ballydavid]

[Day 5: Ballydavid to Cloghane]

[Day 6: Cloghane to Castlegregory]

[Day 7: Castlegregory to Camp]

Camp to Anascaul
13 miles, 1,140 feet

Starting in Camp we missed out the first section from Tralee, which is also repeated on the last day when following the official route. The route, crossing the saddle of the Corrin Mountain range, was mainly on small, little used roads known as boreens. Inch Beach provided a welcome stop for lunch and a chance to check out this famous setting where parts of Ryan's Daughter were filmed at the end of the 1960s. Suitably refreshed (though the walk so far had been easy), we continued on to Anascaul where The South Pole Inn commemorates Sir Ernest Shackleton's second officer, Tom Crean.

 

Camp Junction House, a first rate B & B where John gave us a very warm welcome

 

One of the great views from the B & B

 

The banking on the driveway is covered with . . .

 

a mass of . . .

 

red clover

 

Brandon Mountain, the one in the distance, from the official path . . .

 

which is very well waymarked

 

I wonder if this is as close as I will come to seeing a Dolman?

 

Crossing the Finglas River . . .

 

look, mum, no hands!

 

The hedgerows are a profusion of fuchsias

 

Inch Beach . . .

 

where we stop for lunch . . .

 

and take in the view of the Inveragh Peninsula

 

Inch Beach and Macgillycuddy's Reeks

 

There seem to be a profusion of hooded crows

 

As we approach Anascaul we spot a Standing Stone

 

The South Pole Inn, once owned by Tom Crean, the Antarctic explorer . . .

 

is overlooked by his statue . . .

 

and a plaque to his memory

 

Just next door to the monument is our B & B, Ardrinane House (not the best of the holiday)

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Anascaul to Dingle
14.5 miles, 1,400 feet

Again, the route was mainly on minor roads and tracks, making for easy walking. The morning was warm and sunny but the afternoon saw some brief showers - at least they made carrying the waterproofs worthwhile! Looking forward to visiting the main town of the peninsula we were rather disappointed by Dingle's lack of character and a shortage of good shops to browse through. After inspecting all the 'eating establishments' we decided on the colourful Dingle Pub for our evening meal.

 

A pause to look back along the valley . . .

 

and time to shed a layer

 

A rather scraggy looking sheep enjoys an elevated seat

 

Does the coal really come from Poland?

 

A local resident

 

Approaching Minard Castle, where Walter Hussey, a Norman, had a garrison in 1641 . . .

 

The nearby beach is a natural storm beach, the boulders being thrown up by the sea during storms . . .

 

provide perfect seats for a short break

 

At Lispole our choice of seat is not quite so picturesque!

 

Now which way shall we go?

 

A brief shower brings out the waterproofs . . .

 

and the local herd shows great interest in our travels

 

Dingle Harbour . . .

 

with a profusion of sailing boats . . .

 

and a colourful pub - where we returned for our evening meal

 

From our B & B we were able to watch the passage of fishing vessels . .  .

 

as they made their way through the relatively narrow entrance to the harbour

 

Emlagh House B & B, one of the best

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Dingle to Dunquin
14.5 miles, 2,000 feet

Emlagh House B & B was a perfect overnight spot. Apart from the great views of the harbour, the immaculate rooms were tastefully decorated and the breakfast was a delight. After heading back through Dingle we continued on to Ventry beach where we made the most of barefoot walking. We were then pleased to find that most of the route to Slea Head was on footpaths through fields and along the lower slopes of Mount Eagle to Slea Head. Taking time out to explore Coumeenoole Beach, one of the locations used in Ryan's Daughter, we could also see the Blasket Islands, though there was a light sea mist. Then it was back onto the road for the last stretch into Dunquin.

 

Local residents out for a stroll!

 

Ventry Beach with Mount Eagle in the mist

 

Time to take the boots off . . .

 

and test the temperature of the water!

 

Walking along the beach . . .

 

we spot a kite surfer . . .

 

who is pulled out of the water . . .

 

but makes an excellent landing

 

The remains of clochains, or beehive huts as they are more commonly known . . .

 

Not far from the Slea Head Drive road . . .

 

we have great views of larger clochains . . .

 

and can see the most westerly point of Europe . . .

 

and the Blasket Islands . . .

 

as we approach Coumeenoole Beach . . .

 

one of the locations for Ryan's Daughter

 

But first, time for a coffee break . . .

 

where we find a cheeky seagull . . .

 

who takes advantage . . .

 

of any milk left in the jug!

 

Looking back along the cliffs . . .

 

and over to Slea Head . . .

 

as we make our way down to the beach . . .

 

for a closer view . . .

 

of these much photographed rocks . . .

 

before continuing on to Dunquin

 

Glean Dearg B & B, not at the top of the list

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Dunquin to Ballydavid
13.5 miles, 500 feet

We had a comfortable stay at Gleann Dearg B & B where the hostess provided an evening meal as there was nowhere else to eat in this widely dispersed village. Our late start was due to the fact that breakfast was not served until 9am. Before long we reached Clougher Beach and had our first sighting of the Three Sisters. After a brief stop at the beach to enjoy the scenery we continued along the original route, as marked on the map. Skirting the cliffs, the waves of Atlantic Ocean made an impressive sight as they crashed against the rocks below. Arriving back on the road it was then a gradual uphill walk to Smerwick Harbour where we diverted from the route to visit Dún an Óir,  Fort of Gold, the site of an Iron Age fort. From here it was a simple walk along the beach to Murreagh then a short stretch along the road to the next B & B.

 

Blasket Islands

 

Sybil Point with Clogher Beach just in view on the left . . .

 

and the Three Sisters centre right

 

On our way to Clogher beach . . . 

 

we pass an interesting standing stone . . .

 

 to the left of which you can just see a second stone . . .

 

both with holes that line up to give you a view of the ocean

 

Clogher Beach . . .

 

with its very picturesque sandy shore

 

provides the perfect spot for a photo . . .

 

and just the place for another view . . .

 

of the Blasket Islands

 

Zooming in on the Three Sisters . . .

 

as we make our way . . .

 

along the cliffs . . .

 

which bravely face the Atlantic Ocean

 

Look carefully - there is a second oyster catcher on the left (look for the legs)

 

The Three Sisters rise in the distance . . .

 

but here it is the cliffs that provide . . .

 

the main point of interest

 

Early-purple orchid

 

The Fort of Gold memorial to the massacre of 600 people in 1580

 

A grassy mound is all that is left of the Iron Age fort . . .

 

but it provides a good view of Mount Brandon, in the mist . . .

 

and the entrance to Smerwick Harbour

 

The mist almost clears the top of Mount Brandon - we will climb the shoulder on the left tomorrow!

 

Imeall na Mara - one of the best, with a convenient shop/PO next door

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Ballydavid to Cloghane
11 miles, 2,064 feet

Our stay at Imeall na Mara B & B was one of the best of the holiday. The comfortable rooms were surpassed only by the welcome and helpfulness of our hostess. As there was nowhere nearby to eat she took us into Ballyferriter and collected us after the meal. She also transported us to the start of the climb over Mount Brandon shoulder, thus cutting out a few miles of road walking. All the information about the walk had stressed the difficulty of this section and given warnings not to attempt it in mist. In fact, it was well waymarked and the climb was little more than a gradual uphill walk. Whilst the path at the beginning of the descent was rather eroded, this was easy to bypass and the rest of the route was a gradual downhill on a clear path. This was the first day that Mount Brandon wasn't in mist but from our descent the actual summit was difficult to pinpoint. Now with time to spare we spent extra time on Brandon beach enjoying the sun before continuing to Cloghane.

 

Getting ready to start the climb . . .

 

and take a few photos

 

The Three Sisters, with Sybil Head to the left, look quite different from this side

 

The climb isn't as bad as we thought it would be . . .

 

and has lots of waymarkers

 

Ballydavid Head . . .

 

and a pause to get our breath back

 

The gate provides an opportunity to use the timer . . .

 

but a shot from a higher point, Marie's hands, gives a better background to the photo

 

Nearing the top we take time out for refreshments . . .

 

and just beyond the highest point we find a standing stone . . .

 

where Marie captures me setting up the timer . . .

 

making sure the position is just right . . .

 

for a group photo

 

Then its off down the other side - with some very big signs to guide the way

 

Looking back at the shoulder we have just crossed

 

At last, a close up of the peat bog cutting . . .

 

and stacking

 

Brandon Pier, and time for a cup of tea . . .

 

before finding an alternative use for a survival bag!

 

Then another beach walk . . .

 

before heading down the road to the B & B . . .

 

Benagh B & B - an older house but very welcoming

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Cloghane to Castlegregory
18 miles, 900 feet

A short walk from the B & B brought us into Cloghane itself, with its very colourful houses. After skirting Drom Hill it was onto the beach for 6 miles along the beach and try as we might, it was hard to imagine that the end of the beach in the distance was actually 6 miles away. After stowing the boots on our backpacks we set out on firm sand, making the walking easier. Picking our way carefully through pebbly sections and paddling in the shallow water added variety to the long trek. Eventually reaching the exit point all traces of sand were removed from feet before donning boots to traverse the peninsula, passing a very inviting pub on the way. Being the penultimate day it was decided to forego the picnic lunch and take in the delights of pub fare. Suitably refreshed we made our way to the next beach but found that it was unsuitable for bare feet and continued appropriately shod. Before long we were heading into Castlegregory and quickly spotted our B & B.

 

Leaving Cloghane, a dark sky . . .

 

but colourful houses

 

We had seen a number of shrines en route, this one next to a school

 

Oyster catchers looking for breakfast

 

A last look back at Brandon Mountain - now in mist again

 

Boots off for the 11 kilometre beach . . .

 

the longest in Ireland - as far as you can see to the left!

 

What happened to the legs?!

 

Striding out - we are glad the sand is firm . . .

 

as we have a long way to go!

 

Debbie leads the way . . .

 

and we try a little paddling to vary the route

 

A day out for schoolchildren . . .

 

what a way to end the school year!

 

A figure on the dunes points the way . . .

 

but I don't think he will be walking far!

 

Time to get all the sand off our feet . . .

 

before putting the boots back on

 

A large rock is perfect for drying the wings

 

A curreagh, the typically Irish boats found in this area

 

Ned Natterjack's . . .

 

a traditional Irish pub . . .

 

5 minutes from Lough Gill, home of the rare natterjack toad

 

Castle House B & B, a very warm

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Castlegregory to Camp
7.6 miles, 320 feet

As we had chosen to start the walk from Camp instead of Tralee, we had only 7 or so miles to return to Camp Junction House B & B. After an initial stretch on the road we returned to the beach and were pleasantly surprised to find the the route had been changed to stay on the beach rather than trekking inland and then back to the beach. Arriving back at the B & B we were pleased to find the car where we had left it 7 days ago. Thanks to John Doyle, our host, for his permission to leave it 'at his place'. Our plan was to visit the widely advertised Blennerville Windmill and Steam Train. We found the windmill quite interesting but were disappointed to hear that the steam train was no longer in operation and, from the looks of the tracks, hadn't been for some time.

 

Following heavy rain during the night, we are relieved to find that we don't have to paddle across this ford

 

A couple of ponies enjoy their breakfast

 

Fortunately the stream widens on the beach . . .

 

and can be crossed without getting wet feet . . .

 

as long as you take care

 

Our final destination, Camp, comes into view . . .

 

as we near the end of the route on the beach . . .

 

and pose for a final group shot

 

Zooming in on a cormorant

 

We had looked forward to our return visit to Camp Junction House, a top quality B & B

In total we walked 92 miles and climbed just over 8,200 feet in 7 days. Personally, I found too much of the route followed boreens and tracks rather than footpaths but there was a wide variety of scenery and great views. Many of the B & Bs were purpose built and furnished to a high standard. Of course, the weather can make all the difference on long distance walks, and it had been very kind to us.

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